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A heavy brown curtain obscured the runway as Dries Van Noten's guests ambled to their seats. There were cakes and ginger tea on offer, and the proceedings had the feeling of a cocktail party, despite the early hour. When the partitions finally lifted, the audience was dazzled by what seemed like acres of delicate gold leaf (flecks of which could be found in the preshow treats) and a fall collection that was equal parts Eastern splendor and somber masculinity.

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